Recently worked on a friend's refreshed 4A-GE sporting a pair of Mikuni 44PHH carbs. While dialing her in, in between the test jaunts she started developing an ever increasing sticking throttle. Pretty soon, the idle had jumped from 950 to 2000+. The entire carb-to-intake assembly was sitting on my bench while the engine/car were being prepped and no binding/galling was ever observed. Still, we went through a litany of the usual suspects: over-tightened throttle shaft nut
So I'm performing my regular startup and warmup routine on the 86s and when I get to the "Tanuki", she won't turn over. My first assumption is her battery is dead, so I go to pull the hood latch and "SNAP!", the hood lock release just broke. Grrrrrr! "Okay, don't worry." I tell myself. "Remember the 'RE86' doesn't use its hood latch." That's right! Let's grab that one.
Hmmm, ohhhhhkaaaaay... "Doh!" "Okay, don't panic. The GTS you're working on doesn't need its lever
For those of you foolish enough (to others you are a wicked blasphemer) to go exploring in the old forest of carburetion, hunched over laden with a 20 valve 4AG motor on your back - a treasure that you will most certainly seek amidst those unjustly maligned woods is the "fire of life"... Okay, so what are we talking about here? We're talking about ignition, folks. We're not just talking about just simply "spark" but also the good stuff that should come with it: timing advan
A quick update on the Raspberry Pi Digital Cluster Project - finally got her installed in Law's Levin Hatch. The install was all very straight forward as it was worked out and tested on the "bench" beforehand. With a little bit of cable routing, sheathing and heatshrink all the necessary connections were easy-peasy. Ran separate circuits for the USB ac/dc pwr converters and supply for simple troubleshooting. A keyboard & mouse can still be easily connected to the Raspberr
A few weekends ago, while giving the cars their usual start & warm up, decided to take a manometer to each of the carb stacks on the "Clunky Panda" to measure and compare vacuum across all 4 - #3 was the worse BUT why was she idling so well? Did a quick audio test at each horn opening and again, #3 was the odd man out. The ignition setup uses 4 Coil on Plugs - so as it idled, each connector was disconnected then reconnected, one at a time to observe an obvious drop in idle.
Previously, I had completed a prototype and fully functional custom gauge cluster that fit neatly in the factory cluster location and behind the oem lens. Arie PF, from the 86Connect FB Group, commented "thats pretty cool. can you dual screen it? I saw something like that in a renault years ago." and someone else observed that it was a shame for the extra space to go unused. I wholeheartedly agreed with both of them. I did have my initial doubts that I could fit two screen
I've been working off and on with a good friend's project for a couple of years now. With all the wiring pulled, she's finally at the stage where the Megasquirt is running a base tune for he to fire up for regular warm ups and drive on and off the trailer when she needs to be moved. All the lights and turn signals are re-wired but still using the factory levers and combo switches. A factory cluster would need to be sourced but I thought I'd delve into what more enterprisin
For all of the fellow die-hard, stubborn 4AG brethren, you're familiar with grabbing a large screwdriver, pry-bar, etc...wedged between the alternator body and block in one hand to apply tension on the belt while tightening down on that 12mm bolt with the other. Then afterwards, torquing down on the 14mm underneath. No sooner than having done all of that, you fire her up and are welcomed with the loving belt squeal smugly saying "You thought you were done." Okay, so that s
If you've converted the front end of your non JDM AE86 to the JDM kouki front bumper w/ Turn Indicator Lamps, then you may be one of those who want those Signal Lamps to operate in the manner they were originally intended.
Things you'll need:
1. The "schematic" provided in this article 2. Minimum 16 gauge wire 3. Wire cutters/dikes 4. Butt-end crimps & crimpers OR soldering iron
5. Heat shrink / electrical tape 6. 2x 8-pin 12v DPDT relays 7. Female spade connectors OR 8-pin
What important differences do YOU see between the 3 different heads in the following images and why do you find them important? Image A - Toyota 16v 4AGE head image courtesy of Bill Sherwood (www.billzilla.org) Image B - Honda F20C cut-away image courtesy of www.carthrottle.com Image C - Toyota 20v 4AGE head image courtesy of Bill Sherwood (www.billzilla.org) Image D - Toyota 7AFE cut-away from the FSM
What I already see is the intake port to valve angle in the 16v head (ima